Thursday, May 24, 2018

A Weekend in Borneo

Making the most of a Free Weekend in Singapore to get a few Life Birds.


Birding trips to Borneo usually last two to three weeks.  They include time in the highlands of Kinabalu National Park and then usually some additional rainforest sites in lowland Sabah with the more intrepid birders going on to Sarawak for some range-restricted rarities.  I have never had the opportunity to take a trip like this but have always wanted to go to Borneo and see some of the amazing birds they have there.

As a child I heard stories of the Bornean rainforest from my father, who had fought there as a British Army Paratrooper in the '60s in a conflict between Indonesia and newly independent Malaysia.  He never spoke about the fighting, but he did have endless tales of flying lizards and flying snakes, orangutans and giant biting insects of various sorts.  For 25 years I've looked at trip descriptions in Birding Tour Company catalogues but somehow never got to Borneo.  So, this year, determined to make more out of free weekends on business trips, I took a chance, jumped on a flight from Singapore to Kota Kinabalu after work on Friday night, met up with Wilbur Goh of Bird Tours Asia, and set off for a day and a half of birding on island I had so long anticipated seeing.

Forest and Mountain at Kinabalu National Park

Saturday, April 7th - Kinabalu National Park

A very early start, and a drive through winding mountain roads in the pre-dawn light, took us to the fabled Kinabalu National Park.  Any illusions of heading into the wilderness were quickly disabused as the sun came up and revealed good roads, pretty scenery, and not a lot of forest remaining in what seemed like a terribly small park, especially given how famous it is.  Still, the birds were supposed to be there so, after a quick roadside breakfast where several other birding groups passed by us on the road, we got down to business.

First identifiable bird of the day was an Eyebrowed Jungle-Flycatcher feeding in the road as it got light enough to see.  A life bird and soon joined by others with Chestnut-hooded Laughingthrush, Bornean Whistler and the engaging little Bornean Stubtail all joining the list.  Then we realized that a star bird was calling just down the road and spent twenty minutes stalking, and finally getting good views of an EVERETT'S THRUSH singing in the understory downhill from us.  Not a bad start.

We spent the rest of the morning working our way up and down the Power Station Road (and some of it's short side-trails) uphill of the Park HQ.  For such a short, and well travelled (and birded) road it was truly very productive with many life birds for me, including Blyth's Hawk-Eagle, Blyth's Shrike-Babbler, Bornean Treepie, Bornean Swiftlet, Bornean Whitling-Thrush and the very spiffy Bornean Green-Magpie.  Undoubted highlight on the way up though was a FRUITHUNTER, a bird I had not expected to see with only one day in habitat.  We heard one calling up on the slope above the road and were able to get close enough for views along a steep side-trail.  Another one of the key target birds joining the list not long after breakfast.

Bornean Green-Magpie
On the way back down the road things got even better.  First we bumped into a super cooperative WHITEHEAD'S BROADBILL sitting close to an apparent nest site.  This was perhaps the bird I most wanted to see in highland Borneo, a giant among the green broadbills and an electric-emerald jewell in the forest.

Whitehead's Broadbill

With the broadbill in the bag, the idea of seeing Whitehead's Trio came to mind and we quickly added a couple of female WHITEHEAD'S TROGONS to the list in the mirk of the forest.

Whitehead's Trogon in the darkness of the forest

Too soon though it was lunch time so the third member of the trio, the Whitehead's Spiderhunter, would have to wait.  Even lunch was good though, traditional Malaysian food with a couple of lifers seen from the restaurant terrace while we were eating.


In the afternoon we tried some new trails, and covered a lot of ground in the forest away from the road.  While we didn't get everything (how could we in one day?) we added a lot more species, and more lifers for me, including the freaky Bare-headed Laughingthrush.

Orange-backed Woodpecker and Bare-headed
Laughingthrush 

Sunday, April 8th - Crocker Range

With most, but not all, of the Kinabalu specialties in the bag, we decided to change plans and bird the Crocker Range on Sunday morning before heading back to the airport for my flight back to Singapore.  Recognizing that we couldn't get all the highland specialties in one weekend, we decided to focus on the one I most wanted, Whitehead's Spiderhunter.  While the plan was good, the target unfortunately eluded us ... we had Spectacled and Bornean Spiderhunters but no Whitehead's Trio for me.  There were a few more life birds though, so certainly not wasted time.  In all I ended up with 35 lifers in a day and a half.  Certainly a good use of a weekend.

Ochraceous Bulbul and Ashy Drongo




Monday, April 23, 2018

Canebreak Groundcreeper and Marsh Things

A Weekend in Southern Brazil

Saturday, March 17 - Santa Catarina State

An odd weekend to pick up some star birds in a couple of Southern Brazilian states.  Saturday started with a long, twisting drive across a low mountain range (Dramamine please!) before a lunch stop at the best restaurant in Itapoá in Santa Catarina State.  The restaurant was good, largely filled with little old ladies, but close to a beautiful beach full of attractive Brazilian surfers.  Birding trips aren't always dull ...

Beautiful Itapoá
Just before lunch we'd made a stop for a seriously good bird and spent an hour along a side road in short, scrubby looking, forest looking for KAEMPFER'S TODY-TYRANT a seriously 'must get' bird with a very limited range.  The tody-tyrant actually cooperated and came in right away to tape but circled us quickly defeating my photographic abilities (many photos of branches where the bird had just been) and was gone.  The area was super productive though, giving me 4 life birds with Restinga Tyrannulet, Three-striped Flycatcher and Black-backed Tanager all being new for me.  Then lunch ... on the beach ... no complaints.

Restinga Tyrannulet
After lunch, we had a serious goal ... mop up a bunch of specialty birds in the Itapoá area.  If we succeeded then we could leave early next morning and have time to bird in Paraná State, and if we didn't succeed, then we'd bird in the same area the next morning.

First up was PARANÁ ANTWREN, a super-range-restricted species that had previously been recorded in a trashy-looking marsh area in the port district.  We heard them quickly but it took quite a while to coax one out into view and the sound of trucks thundering by on the road didn't help much.  The habitat here seems so vulnerable but it doesn't look like it's protected in any way, things may be bleak for this species.  While we were working the antwrens we got two bonus prizes, the locally common Azure Jay dropped by, then a big flock of BROWN-BACKED PARROTLETS flew over.  The big flock, 50+, was a huge surprise and this super-range-restricted (tiny spot on the map) and rarely seen species wasn't really one I'd held any hope of actually encountering.  Eduardo played a recording to try to get them to turn, but too late, and they carried on flying over.  Still, a nice piece of luck and nice add for the trip.

Paraná Antwren
Nest, on to Volta Vehla reserve, a beautiful little private reserve with nice forest trails, good accommodation, but perhaps a few too many mosquitoes.  The must get bird here was SCALED CHACHALACA and they obligingly showed up along the entrance road as we drove it.  That allowed us a leisurely evening of birding along the trails which added such goodies as Gray-breasted Crake and Black-capped Foliage-gleaner ... and another dinner at the fancy restaurant ... the clientele was the same but the fresh local fish was really good.

Scaled Chachalaca and Striped Cuckoo


Sunday, March 18 - Paraná State

With our targets cleaned up, we got up super early and headed back to the city of Curitiba where first stop surprisingly was an urban park.  Park Barigui was a great piece of habitat with several fairly large areas of native forest, but it is an urban park with lots of people and at the first stop a whole bunch of drunk teenagers finishing a long night of drinking.  Still, we were intrepid birders and so pressed on, entering "the forest" and playing for my target bird here, the CANEBRAKE GROUNDCREEPER a very cool Southern Brazilian specialty with a very evocative name.  The Groundcreepers popped up on request and we worked our way though the "forest" adding a few more lifers for me, namely Olive Spinetail and Gray-throated Warbling-Finch.  In a way I felt quite at home ... joggers, shady characters of various types, drunk teens, and older cruising gay men all reminded my of Central Park.   Birding sure does take you to interesting places.

And so out last stop was an area of marshes, woodland and fields near the airport where we added a few more goodies like Chestnut-backed Tanager and made a heroic effort to see the recently described MARSH TAPACULO.  I know this species as the Tall-Grass Wetland Tapaculo and had read about it's discovery (in 1997) and really wanted to see one.  Eduardo's (my guide) heart visibly sank though when I mentioned it, clearly this was not an easy bird to see.  We spent a couple of hours at the Estrada do Curralinho marsh, a known hotspot for the species, and positioned ourselves around an area where other birders had cut a path through the impenetrably dense marsh vegetation to see the bird.  Dense actually doesn't even begin to describe this habitat ... the chest-high grass was so tightly woven together that walking through it was quite impossible and yet, this little bird loves the stuff and scrambles around completely safe from predators in the almost solid mass of tangled vegetation.  We heard the bird ... it responded readily to tape ... but it did not come to the edge of the grass.  Still it was a memorable experience to encounter a bird I'd read so much about and eventually I released Eduardo from his torment and said that "heard only" was just fine.

Burrowing Owl
Then time for lunch ... an amazing meat banquet at a local rodizio restaurant ... and a flight to Saõ Paulo then on to New York.  Until next time Brazil ...

Saturday, March 31, 2018

Plovercrests and Spadebills

A Quick Two Day Visit to Intervales State Park in Saõ Paulo State

I go to Saõ Paulo (the city) for business quite often and have done quite a lot of birding in Eastern Brazil over the years.  People often asked me if I'd been in Intervales State Park though, and even though it's only 4 hours drive from the city, up until this year I never had.

This March trip to Saõ Paulo started out as a dinner plan, then a few days in the office got added, then a weekend with friends, and having morphed dinner into a 4-day trip already I decided to stay the whole week and add 5 days of birding to the itinerary too.

Wednesday, March 14th - Saõ Paulo to Intervales

Up bright and early to meet Eduardo Patrial at Congonhas Airport to pick up a rental car.  The night before had been long and full of amazing food and wine so I wasn't exactly at my most perky, and of course the rental car process was infuriatingly long and inefficient, but eventually we got on our way and drive out of the city heading South.  There really wasn't much to see on the drive down, just fields and cows, but after a quick lunch stop we pulled off the paved road and headed up into the forest for two and a half days of nothing but birding.  Deep breath ... fresh air ... smile ...

Squamate Antbird and Rufous Gnateater

The first afternoon was for getting oriented so we checked out a number of the best spots and areas where some good birds had been habituated through feeding (none of those birds were present).  We did take the opportunity though to check out the lek of PURPLE-CROWNED PLOVERCRESTS, truly spiffy hummingbirds where the males sit still in dense cover and 'sing' to attract females to them.  When we got to the lek area we could hear two males singing and saw a female.  I wanted to see the male though to bushwhacked into the dense vegetation, and after 20 minutes of carefully searching for a bird we could hear close to us but just could not see, a slight change of angle added the plovercrest to my life list.

Purple-crowned Plovercrest
Then it started to rain a little so we headed back to the car and realized that that dense undergrowth had been perfect habitat for ticks which had transferred to us nice warm mammals while we were looking for the birds.  Then it started to rain A LOT ... the type of tropical deluge that dumps several inches of rain in the space of minutes.  So we gave up birding for the day, went to the guest house, ate chicken, rice and beans (our staple for the trip) and hoped that it would stop raining before the morning.  At that point I wondered if it was ever going to stop raining ... the sort of biblical downpour that has you wondering how to build an ark.

Thursday, March 15th - Intervales

No rain, and a full day of birding with Eduardo and an excellent local guide added a lot of life birds for me, perhaps 20 in all.  We saw the usually skulking SOLITARY TINAMOU and SPOT-WINGED WOOD-QUAIL up close and personal.  The forest had a nice selection of antbirds, antvireos, antwrens, antthrushes, antpittas, antshrikes (collectively I call then 'ant-things') plus lots of woodcreepers, foliage-gleaners, treehunters, leaftossers ... the list goes on.   We took the time to track down a White-breasted Tapaculo (I love tapaculos) and lucked out with a Royal Flycatcher, and that was all before lunch.

Spot-winged Wood-Quail and Green-backed Trogon

In the afternoon we took a quick side-trip outside the park to find HALF-COLLARED SPARROW, a really attractive sparrow that seems to like the second-growth and bamboo habitat along the park entrance road.  Then after failing to see Long-trained Nightjar at a stake-out we ended the day on a high note with LONG-TUFTED SCREECH OWL nearby.

Long-tufted Screech Owl
Friday, March 16th - Intervales

Another full day in the forest with a specific goal for the morning.  We hiked a long way down a relatively steep trail into a valley.  All the way down I was of course thinking of having to walk back up but the birds and plenty of Brazilian Tapir and even Ocelot tracks kept me in a good mood as we got closer to our target.  I was still getting life birds and added Black-cheeked Gnateater and Blue-bellied Parrot before we even got to the main event.  Intervales seems to be The Place to see RUSSET-WINGED SPADEBILL and today the bird didn't disappoint, popping up promptly when we got down to it's territory (note to self though - have to get in better shape before the Horned Guan hike in August).

Russet-winged Spadebill - rarer than it is pretty .... and local guide hard
at work finding it for me ...

Other good birds later that day included RED-AND-WHITE CRAKE which finally came out to it's feeding station (we'd tried 5 times previously) and an ORANGE-BREASTED THORNBIRD at the same spot.  Nice birds and we still had owling ahead of us ...

The owling started out really well with a close view of a RUSTY-BARRED OWL followed by a long but ultimately successful hunt for BLACK-CAPPED SCREECH OWL.  Overall in two nights at Intervales we had 5 species of owl and 2 nightjars ... that's about as good as it gets.

Rusty-barred Owl and Black-capped Screech-Owl

We also had a nice reminder that we were in a wild place ... we'd been stumbling around in the dark looking for owls for hours when we bumped into a Bothrops jararaca, a large and very venomous snake out hunting along the same trails.  Luckily our paths didn't cross too closely and it was a very pretty serpent, but makes you think ....

Really, don't step on this ....



Sunday, March 25, 2018

The Lark Loop

A Visit to the Highveld Grasslands of Mpumalanga, South Africa

Over the years, you see a lot of habitats and a lot of wildlife on nature shows on TV.  A lot of the shows on Africa look a lot like the last post, Lions and Elephants in thorn scrub habitat, but there are some places that look very different, and one in particular I'd always wanted to visit.  The Highveld habitat is a special place.  Higher altitude grasslands, scattered with small Afrikaner farming communities, and filled with interesting and different birds.  It's hard to think of anything quite like it, so three days based in Wakkerstroom exploring this habitat was a trip I had been looking forward to for some time.



Sunday, January 7th / Monday, January 8th ... Wakkerstroom Area

We were staying at a lovely little guest house on the outskirts of Wakkerstroom.  South Africa prompts an odd series of emotions and Wakkerstroom, a pretty little Afrikaner farm town with neat little houses and beautiful gardens, prompted more than a few.  Outside of town, the "africans" (as the locals call them) still lived in a densely packed, and somewhat basic township with cinder block and corrugated iron 'houses'.  It may not have been surrounded by a fence any more but the contrast between the housing there, and the beautiful manicured grounds and accommodation at the place we were staying was quite jarring.  At dawn on day one, we drove over to the 'african' neighborhood to pick up our local guide for the day, the famous and talented Lucky.  Then off for a full day of birding the local hotspots.

White-bellied Bustard
Southern Bald Ibis
First stop was a location for WHITE-BELLIED BUSTARD and we quickly picked one up while driving across the short grass area where they breed.  Bustards were very much a key theme of the grasslands and not long afterwards we found ourselves searching for DENHAM'S BUSTARD and getting some distant scope views.  The third bustard species, BLUE BUSTARD had to wait until the next day but hey, any place with three bustard species is hardly horrible.

Mammals weren't really a target up here but we did see Meerkats, Yellow Mongoose, Scrub Hare, Springbok, Blesbok, Common Duiker, an Oribi, Mountain Reedbuck and a SERVAL, only the second one I'd ever seen.  Not a bad haul for a place not famous for it's mammals.

The bird I most wanted to see in the grasslands though was the BLUE CRANE the odd-looking, but strangely beautiful grassland crane of Southern Africa.  We saw a couple in the extreme distance while looking for bustards but I had to wait a while before we bumped into a pair with a young chick closer to the road.  The birds didn't panic when we stopped to take photos but they did walk away quite quickly so all I got was photos from the back.  Such an amazing species though, still my Facebook cover photo three months later.

Blue Crane family
Wakkerstroom is famous in birding circles not for these amazing big birds though, but for a series of small cryptic songbirds that spend their days hiding in the grass.  A half dozen species of lark can be found here but two of them RUDD'S LARK and BOTHA'S LARK are very rare and very hard to see anywhere else.  So generations of birders have come here to look for larks and with expert guide Lucky along for the ride, we planned to as well.

The spot for Rudd's Lark was an huge area of grassland with a few cows and couple of small building, and after stopping at a small farm to pay a fee, and stopping to flush an African Snipe from a small wetland, we got down to the serious business of lark-hunting.  Lucky clearly knew where a pair or larks preferred to be, so stopped in an area of grassland and had us form a line (of three birders) and walk through a specific area looking for find the larks.  45 minutes, and many passes later, no larks.  So we gave up on that pair and started working more broadly across acres of seemingly identical grasslands.  We saw Spike-heeled Larks, Red-capped Lark, various cisticolas and African Pipits (all similar-looking small brown birds) but no Rudd's Lark.  The only excitement came after about an hour and a half when we flushed a HOTTENTOT BUTTONQUAIL a very special and unexpected species.  Finally though, we were forced to admit defeat, deciding to try one more time at the original spot before moving one ... and of course there was a RUDD's LARK right where we'd started two hours before.

Rudd's Lark 
Scrub Hare, looking terrified ...
Botha's Lark
By contrast, the search for BOTHA'S LARK was straightforward.  We went to the site, got out, formed a line and walked no more than 30 yards before we found a pair on the nest.  Still a very good bird though.

Jackal Buzzard and Ground Woodpecker 


With the larks in the bag, and many other grassland species besides, we had time to look for a couple of species I really wanted to see at the Waakerstroom Wetlands.  My Rockjumper guide, Selwyn Rautenbach had done some important work on the super-rare and near mythical White-winged Flufftail, the rarest member of a family I'd seen precisely none of to date.  While we were talking about it he mentioned that Red-chested Flufftail lived in the local marsh ... did I want to see it?  Duh!  Of course I did.

So we spent a fair amount of time at the marsh seeing a good selection of water birds and even a big Nile Monitor lizard.   Gray Crowned-Cranes were here as were African Rails and African Marsh-Harriers, a truly birdy spot.  Playing tape for the flufftail I kept my fingers crossed then saw just hint of movement in the grass ... and there it was ... a female RED-CHESTED FLUFFTAIL, my first flufftail.  Hopefully not the last ...

Red-chested Flufftail ... well I was excited.
The night wasn't over though and we ended the birding by calling in an AFRICAN MARSH OWL.  When I was a kid I looked at the species in the Peterson Field Guide to the birds of Europe, the Middle East and North Africa (they just get into Morocco) and had always wanted to see one.  Magical way to end the day.  And who knew, there was even a decent restaurant in Waakerstroom ... so some cocktails and a delicious meal to end the visit ... who could ask for more?







Saturday, January 27, 2018

Photospot: Mammals of the Kruger National Park

Some Mammal Photos from my January Trip to South Africa

Spent part of four days in the Kruger National Park.  Lots of birds (to follow) but here are some of the mammals we saw.  Some of these need no labels ....




On the first few days we saw no Rhino and I was worried that the poachers (who have apparently been very active, even in the park) had killed them all off.  On the last few days though we saw a total of 7 White Rhino.


Every guide wants to get you "The Big Five" and with Elephant and Rhino, we needed Lion, Buffalo and Leopard.





And then there were other critters ... Steenbok, Klipspringer, Dwarf Mongoose, Spotted Hyena.





And finally, Vervet Monkey and Warthog.



Other mammals in the Kruger included some night drive mammals - Lesser Galago, Thick-tailed Galago, White-tailed Mongoose, Red Tree-Rat, Scrub Hare, African Civet and Large-spotted Genet.  We also had Blue Wildebeest, Giraffe, Hippopotamus, Slender Mongoose, Banded Mongoose, Black-backed Jackal, Burchel's Zebra, Waterbuck, Bushbuck, Chacma Baboon, Lichtenstein's Hartebeest, Impala, Kudu, and Tree Squirrel.

Away from the Kruger we also added Black Wildebeest, Common Duiker, Eland, Mountain Reedbuck, Meerkat, Nyala, Oribi, Rock Hyrax, Serval, Springbok, Tseessebe, Blesbok, and Yellow Mongoose.

Total of 46 species of mammal ... better than some birding trips I've been on.